This is a list by face with descriptions that include the common names plus some used by the Himalayn Database. Visit this National Geographic piece about a proposed new route in with an excellent article and animations.
Using the Himalayan database, I researched the non-standard routes to get an idea of the volume on these routes. This is not an all-inclusive list. By now you know two routes dominate Everest. Today, these routes seem to be caught up in guide politics as to which is safer, the degree of difficulty and opportunity for success. An argument can be made for climbing from either side.
They used the South Col route. At that time the route had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn of They reached m well above the South Col. Of note, Norgay was with the Swiss thus giving him the experience he used on the British expedition. The Swiss returned in to make the second summit of Everest. This is a typical south side climb schedule showing average time and the distance from the previous camp plus a brief description of each section.
More details can be found on the South Col route page. Not all teams will use this exact schedule to summit from the Nepal side via the South Col. For a more detailed description and animated route map, please see the South Col route page. The first attempt was by a British team in Mallory led a small team to be the first human to set foot on the flanks of the mountain by climbing up to the North Col m.
It was also on this expedition that the first deaths were reported when an avalanche killed seven Sherpas. If they did summit, that would precede Tenzing and Hilary by 29 years.
A Chinese team made the first summit from Tibet on May 25, In , on a successful summit expedition, the Chinese installed the ladder on the Second Step. Tibet was closed to foreigners from to preventing any further attempts until a Japanese team summited in via the Hornbein Couloir on the North Face. The north side started to attract more climbers in the mids and today is almost as popular as the Southside when the Chinese allow permits. In and , obtaining a permit was difficult thus preventing many expeditions from attempting any route from Tibet.
More details can be found on the Northeast Ridge route page. For a more detailed description and route pictures, please see the Northeast Ridge route page.
If you just look at climbing from Tibet or Nepal, it misses the detail where the deaths occur. This number is heavily driven by the ice serac release off the West Shoulder of Everest onto the Khumbu Icefall taking 17 lives and when 14 people were killed at Basecamp in after 7.
Whether these were one time events or ongoing concerns have yet to be determined. Climbers must make their own decision as to the safer standard route. Northeast Ridge. Southeast Ridge. The north route, which is often shorter but considered more unforgiving, is accessible via Tibet.
The south route, which is a bit more consistent, can be taken from Nepal. The south route up Everest takes climbers through the icefall, which is a steep, direct route up, as opposed to the rigidity and unevenness of the terrain on the mountain's north side.
The reason this route is often considered more forgiving is due to the fact that rescues are performed more easily and climbers begin their hike from base camp I, and lower villages are more easily accessed for recovery prior to the hike to the summit.
While hikers won't find an icefall on the north side of the mountain, what they will encounter is a direct trail along the ridgeline of the mountain's highest peaks. The route leaves hikers in high altitudes for longer periods of time than the south route, thus posing a risk fairly soon in the climb. After climbing Everest in and in , I counted 12 total times up and down this gorgeous icefall, and walking ladders over crevasses!
My feet are so small that the points on the crampons could just barely reach between ladder rungs! This crevasse has two ladders roped together.
Some had 3 or 4 ladders roped together!!! Loved it! For example, the Khumbu Icefall. This harrowing walk is guided by the mountain's sherpas, but that doesn't mean it's not fatal.
Climbers must pass over the mountain's deeps crevice in the icefall while wearing crampons and balancing on a shaky ladder. This is one threat of many, including altitude sickness, falling off the mountain's edge, wind shear temps, bad weather, and exhaustion. Once you've made it to a base camp on either route, hikers can say goodbye to their "walking" routes. Climbing Everest is no joke which is why so few people do it each year, and why the death toll is so high.
Climbing, rope clipping, scrambling, and balance are all imperative to life-saving safety measures on the way to the 29,' summit. Repost fahad If you had asked me a few years ago whether I could do Everest, I would have said it was very difficult.
It was a dream to climb Everest and a lifetime achievement, that very few people have succeeded by doing both Everest and Lhotse. This year Everest made the press all over the world from that famous photo of all the climbers waiting in line to summit. All vehicle assisted evacuations start here. There are no helicopter rescues or evacuations on the north side or for any mountain in Tibet. Used on the first trek to ABC during the acclimatization process, this is a spot where a few tents are placed.
Usually this area is lightly snow covered or none at all. Many teams use ABC as their primary camp during the acclimatization period but it is quite high. This area can still be void of snow but offers a stunning view directly at the North Col.
It is a harsh environment and a long walk back to the relative comfort of base camp or Tibetan villages. Leaving Camp 1, climbers reach the East Rongbuk Glacier and put on their crampons for the first time. After a short walk, they clip into the fixed line and perhaps cross a few ladders that are placed over deep glacier crevasses.
The climb from ABC to the North Col steadily gains altitude with one steep section of 60 degrees that will feel vertical. Climbers may use their ascenders on the fixed rope.
Rappelling or arm-wrap techniques are used to descend this steep section. Teams will spend several nights at the Col during the expedition. Mostly a steep and snowy ridge climb that turns to rock. High winds are sometimes a problem making this a cold climb. Some teams use C2 as their highest camp for acclimatization purposes. Teams place their camp 3 at several different spots on the ridge since it is steep, rocky and exposed.
Now using supplemental oxygen, tents are perched on rock ledges and are often pummeled with strong winds. This is higher than the South Col in altitude and exposure to the weather. It is the launching spot for the summit bid. Leaving C3, climbers follow the fixed rope through a snow filled gully; part of the Yellow Band. From here, climbers take a small ramp and reach the northeast ridge proper.
The first of three rock features. The route tends to cross to the right of the high point but some climbers may rate it as steep and challenging.
This one requires good foot work and steady use of the fixed rope in the final gulley to the ridge. A rock feature that spotters and climbers can use to measure their progress on summit night. Oxygen is swapped at this point. The route can be full of loose rock here adding to the difficulty with crampons. Climbers will use all their mountaineering skills.
This is the crux of the climb with the Chinese Ladder. It is more difficult to navigate on the decent since you cannot see your feet placement on the ladder rungs. This brief section is notorious for long delays thus increasing the chance of frostbite or AMS.
A steep snow slope, often windy and brutally cold, climbers feel very exposed at this point. Towards the top of the Pyramid, climbers are extremely exposed again as they navigate around a large outcropping and experience three more small rock steps on a ramp before the final ridge climb to the summit.
Slopes angles range from 30 to 60 degrees. The down climb takes the identical route. Early summiters may experience delays at the 2nd Step with climbers going up or summiters having down climbing issues. Packs can be heavy since everything hauled up over the preceding month must be taken back down.
For a more detailed description and route pictures, please see the Northeast Ridge route page. From the Yellow Band, climbers must go from 27, feet to 28, feet, which is harrowing in itself at such an altitude. Then, they must climb another feet with the help of a metal ladder that's adhered to the rock face.
The final push, called the Third Step, accounts for the last feet to the dome of the North route. Originally from New York, Katie is used to a fast-paced lifestyle. She got her personal start with writing in the second grade, and carried that passion with her until she won a spot in her high school's published poetry book - but not before becoming the News Editor and columnist for the high school newspaper.
In college, she majored in English Literature with an emphasis in Political Science, soaking up most creativity and method from one of the last professors to study under famed beat poet Allen Ginsberg. The more she wrote, the more she learned about the world and, more importantly, herself.
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